City Unscripted

How I Spent 4 Days in Hong Kong (And Why I'd Do It the Same Way Again)

15 Jul 2025

By David Kwok

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[HERO IMAGE: View of Victoria Harbour from the Star Ferry at sunset. Filename: victoria-harbour-ferry.jpg]

Four days in Hong Kong might sound rushed, but it's actually the sweet spot for this amazing city. Long enough to move beyond the obvious tourist checklist, short enough to maintain energy without decision fatigue. I've refined this itinerary through countless visits with friends and family, tweaking the sequence until the logistics flow like water.

The key isn't cramming more activities into each day; it's choosing the right order and using Hong Kong's stellar public transport to your advantage. Get your Octopus card loaded, download Google Maps and the MTR app, and prepare to see why this city rewards the transit-savvy traveler. Whether you're here on a cheap flight from Southeast Asia or planning a longer visit Hong Kong adventure, this itinerary maximizes your time.

Start at Central MTR Station, Exit K. This puts you directly into the International Finance Centre (IFC) mall, which might seem touristy but serves as perfect orientation. The escalators here connect to the Airport Express, various MTR lines, and the Star Ferry, all routes you'll use repeatedly.

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Walk through IFC to the harbourfront promenade. This 15-minute stroll gives you visual context for the next few days: Tsim Sha Tsui across the water, the Peak looming behind you, and the ferry terminals that will become your preferred method of Victoria Harbor crossing.

This is also perfect for street art photography. The covered walkways often feature rotating installations, and the contrast between traditional architecture and modern development tells Hong Kong's story in visual layers.

Take the Airport Express to Central Station, then connect to the Tsuen Wan Line toward Tsuen Wan, getting off at Admiralty. From here, Bus 15 runs directly to the Peak Tram Lower Terminus. Much simpler than the convoluted walking route most guides suggest.

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The Peak Tram queue moves faster than expected, especially on weekdays before 11 AM. Once at the top, skip the Sky Terrace 428 fee. The free viewing areas at the Peak Tower shopping center offer nearly identical views.

The real value of Victoria Peak isn't the initial viewpoint, it's the walking trails. The Lugard Road loop takes about an hour and provides constantly changing perspectives of Victoria Harbor. Start clockwise from the Peak Tower, and you'll hit the best photo spots when the light is optimal.

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Most visitors rush back down immediately. Instead, grab coffee at the Peak Tower and watch how the harbor light changes as afternoon approaches. This timing pays dividends later.

Descend via Peak Tram and take Bus 15 back to Admiralty. From here, the Central District reveals itself in layers. Start with the elevated walkway system, these covered bridges connect major buildings and provide climate-controlled transit between destinations.

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The Landmark shopping center in Central, Hong Kong, is connected to Prince's Building, and they are part of the same complex, which is also linked to other buildings via covered walkways. The General Post Office is located nearby, but not directly connected by the same covered walkway system that links the buildings within The Landmark.

This isn't about shopping, it's about understanding how Hong Kong's vertical city functions. Each level serves different purposes, from ground-level buses to second-floor pedestrian highways.

Exit the walkway system and walk toward the Star Ferry Pier. Pass by the Former Central Police Station complex (now Tai Kwun heritage and arts district), a historic building that represents Hong Kong's colonial past. This beautifully restored complex showcases the city's history through architecture.

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The space between these buildings hosts rotating art installations and provides harbor views without crowds. Local office workers use this area for lunch breaks, a good sign you've found authentic Hong Kong rhythm.

Take the Star Ferry from Central to Tsim Sha Tsui. This eight-to-ten-minute journey costs less than HK$3 for the lower deck (during the week - weekend prices are slightly higher) but provides better Victoria Harbor views than most paid tourist attractions.

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Tsim Sha Tsui promenade extends from the Star Ferry Pier to the Avenue of Stars. Walk the entire length once to get oriented, then backtrack to the Clock Tower area for dinner planning.

The Symphony of Lights show at 8 PM draws massive crowds, but the viewing experience varies dramatically by position. The best spot isn't along the main promenade, it's on the upper level of the Cultural Centre, accessible via stairs near the Space Museum.

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After the light show, most tourists head to Nathan Road; known for its vibrant atmosphere and diverse range of shops, restaurants, and hotels. But instead, explore the side streets between Nathan Road and the harbor. Granville Road (fashion street) offers better dining options with shorter waits.

Total MTR rides: 3 segments Ferry rides: 1 (Central to TST) Bus rides: 2 (to and from Peak Tram) Walking distance: Approximately 5 kilometers (roughly equivalent to 6,000 to 7,500 steps).

The key lesson from Day 1 is timing. Peak in the morning, Central walkways during lunch rush, ferry at sunset, and TST promenade after dark. Each location offers different energy at different times.

Begin Day 2 at Wong Tai Sin Temple, Hong Kong's most famous religious site dedicated to the Great Immortal Wong. It is believed that Wong Tai Sin rescues the dying, heals the wounded, and punishes all evil.

Take the MTR to Wong Tai Sin Station (Kwun Tong Line), Exit B2. The temple complex opens at 7 AM, and early morning visits offer the most authentic experience.

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Wong Tai Sin Temple attracts locals seeking fortune-telling and wish fulfillment. The temple's red pillars and golden roof create spectacular photo opportunities, but more importantly, observing the morning prayer rituals provides insight into contemporary Hong Kong spiritual practices.

From Wong Tai Sin, take the MTR Kwun Tong Line one stop to Diamond Hill Station. Exit C2 leads directly to Nan Lian Garden, a classical Chinese garden that provides peaceful contrast to urban Hong Kong.

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Nan Lian Garden recreates Tang Dynasty garden design with wooden architecture, rock formations, and carefully planned water features. The garden connects to Chi Lin Nunnery, a Buddhist temple complex built entirely with traditional joinery techniques.

Chi Lin Nunnery represents traditional Chinese wooden architecture at its finest. The entire complex was built without nails, using traditional joinery methods that have survived for centuries. The nuns here maintain daily Buddhist practices while welcoming respectful visitors.

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Take the MTR from Diamond Hill to Prince Edward Station (Kwun Tong Line to Mong Kok, then Tsuen Wan Line). Exit B1 puts you directly into the heart of Hong Kong's traditional market district.

Prince Edward area hosts several specialized markets within walking distance: the Flower Market, Goldfish Market, and Bird Garden. This concentration allows efficient exploration of traditional Hong Kong commerce.

The Flower Market (in Flower Market Road) operates daily but peaks early morning when florists prepare for the day's business. The market serves both wholesale and retail customers, creating a authentic working atmosphere rather than tourist attraction.

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The flower varieties reflect Hong Kong's international connections: orchids from Thailand, roses from Ecuador, and local chrysanthemums. Prices here beat hotel flower shops by 70-80%.

The Goldfish Market on Tung Choi Street North specializes in aquarium fish and accessories. While this might seem niche, the market demonstrates Hong Kong's attention to detail in specialized retail sectors.

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Local customers here aren't just buying pets, they're investing in feng shui improvements for their homes and businesses. The vendors can explain which fish bring good fortune with proper aquarium placement.

Walk south from Prince Edward to Mong Kok's main commercial area. Ladies' Market on Tung Choi Street runs from 12 PM to 11 PM, but the optimal visit time is 2-4 PM when vendors are fully set up but crowds remain manageable.

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This street market sells everything from clothing to electronics to household goods. Bargaining is expected, but start at 30% of the asking price rather than the commonly suggested 50%. Most vendors will settle around 40-45% of their initial quote.

Mong Kok offers some of Hong Kong's best street food experiences. Look for the cart noodle stalls, they allow you to customize noodle soups with various ingredients. This represents Hong Kong's answer to fast, affordable, customizable dining.

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For a more substantial meal, find a local cha chaan teng (tea restaurant) for classic Hong Kong-style breakfast. These establishments serve Hong Kong's fusion of Eastern and Western breakfast elements.

Take the MTR from Mong Kok to Admiralty (Tsuen Wan Line), then connect to Island Line eastbound to Wan Chai Station. Exit A1 puts you into Wan Chai's commercial heart.

Wan Chai represents Hong Kong's evolving identity, traditional wet markets coexist with modern office towers. The district gained international fame through Bruce Lee films, and several locations still reference his legacy.

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Wan Chai's Johnston Road wet market operates from early morning until late afternoon. The market sells fresh produce, meat, and seafood to local residents, providing insight into daily Hong Kong life.

The surrounding streets include examples of Hong Kong's disappearing architecture: pre-war shophouses mixed with 1960s residential towers. This urban layer cake tells Hong Kong's development story without requiring a formal walking tour.

To return to Jordan Station from your Temple Street Night Market visit, take the MTR, first by transferring from the Island Line to the Tsuen Wan Line at Admiralty, then heading to Jordan Station. The Temple Street Night Market officially starts at 7 PM, but the best time to experience it is between 8 PM and 10 PM, when it's most lively.

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The market is divided into sections: the northern end focuses on fortune tellers and street food, while the southern end emphasizes clothing and electronics. Start north and work south, as the food stalls get busier as the evening progresses.

Total MTR rides: 6 segments Walking distance: Approximately 7 kilometers. \ Temple visits: 3 (Wong Tai Sin, Chi Lin Nunnery, Man Mo Temple).

Day 2 demonstrates Hong Kong's layered cultural heritage, from traditional temples to modern markets to colonial-era buildings. Each neighborhood operates on its own rhythm and social patterns.

Start early with the MTR Tung Chung Line to Tung Chung Station, the gateway to Lantau Island. Exit B leads directly to the Ngong Ping 360 cable car station. This cable car ride represents one of Hong Kong's most scenic transport experiences.

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The 25-minute cable car ride provides constantly changing views: Tung Chung New Town below, South China Sea to the south, and Lantau's mountainous interior. Choose the standard gondola rather than the crystal cabin, the views are identical and the regular gondola provides steadier photo platforms.

Ngong Ping Village combines tourist facilities with access to Po Lin Monastery and the Tian Tan Buddha. The village itself is artificial but serves as necessary infrastructure for managing the crowds visiting these authentic religious sites.

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Po Lin Monastery functions as an active Buddhist monastery while accommodating visitors. The vegetarian restaurant here serves some of Hong Kong's best temple food, simple ingredients prepared with careful attention to flavor and presentation.

The Tian Tan Buddha, completed in 1993, stands 34 meters tall and represents the harmony between humans, nature, and faith. The 268 steps to reach the Buddha's base provide exercise and gradually reveal the statue's impressive scale.

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Most visitors photograph the Buddha and leave immediately. Instead, spend time exploring the surrounding areas. The monastery grounds include smaller temples, gardens, and meditation areas that provide context for the Buddha's spiritual significance.

From Ngong Ping, take Bus 21 to Tai O, a traditional fishing village on Lantau's western coast. The journey takes 15-20 minutes by bus and traverses Lantau's mountainous interior, providing views of Hong Kong's largest island's diverse geography.

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Tai O preserves traditional fishing village architecture with stilt houses built over tidal channels. The village operates as a living community rather than a tourist attraction, though it welcomes respectful visitors.

The Tai O promenade extends along the main channel, providing views of traditional and modern fishing boats. Local operators offer boat tour services that explore the outer channels and provide opportunities to spot Chinese white dolphins.

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The boat ride costs HK$45 per person and lasts approximately 20 minutes. The tour provides perspectives on Tai O's geography and connections to the Pearl River Delta that shaped its development as a fishing community.

Tai O specializes in dried seafood and traditional snacks. The main street includes shops selling dried fish, shrimp paste, and other preserved foods that represent traditional food preservation methods.

Try the egg waffles filled with ice cream, a local innovation that combines traditional Hong Kong street food with modern flavors. The contrast between warm waffle exterior and cold ice cream interior works particularly well in Lantau's coastal climate.

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The return journey from Tai O to Central takes approximately 2 hours via bus and cable car. Bus 21 from Tai O to Ngong Ping, then cable car to Tung Chung, finally MTR Tung Chung Line to Central.

This transportation sequence provides different perspectives on Lantau Island's geography and Hong Kong's integration of natural and developed areas. The journey itself becomes part of the day's experience rather than simply transit time.

If traveling with children or Disney enthusiasts, Disneyland Hong Kong provides a different Lantau Island experience. Located adjacent to Tung Chung Station, the park offers Disney attractions adapted for Asian audiences.

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However, for cultural authenticity and natural beauty, the Po Lin Monastery and Tai O combination provides more distinctive Hong Kong experiences that can't be replicated elsewhere.

Cable car rides: 2 (up and down Ngong Ping)\ Bus rides: 2 (Ngong Ping to Tai O, return) \ MTR rides: 2 (Central to Tung Chung, return)\ Boat tour: 1 (Tai O channels) \ Total travel time: Approximately 4 hours

Day 3 demonstrates Hong Kong's natural diversity and traditional culture beyond the urban core. Lantau Island provides mountain, monastery, and fishing village experiences within a single day trip.

Start Day 4 at the Hong Kong Museum of History (Tsim Sha Tsui East). Take the MTR to Tsim Sha Tsui Station, then walk 10 minutes via Nathan Road and Chatham Road South. This Hong Kong museum provides comprehensive context for everything you've experienced in the previous three days.

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The museum's permanent exhibition "The Hong Kong Story" traces the territory's development from prehistoric times through the handover to China (this permanent exhibition has been temporarily closed for revamp). The displays provide background for understanding contemporary Hong Kong culture and urban development.

Allocate 2-3 hours for the museum visit. The exhibits explain Hong Kong's evolution from fishing villages to international financial center, providing context for the neighborhoods and buildings you've explored.

The museum also frequently hosts temporary exhibits focusing on specific aspects of Hong Kong culture: traditional crafts, immigration patterns, or architectural development. These rotating displays often provide insights not available elsewhere.

From the museum, take a taxi or bus to Kowloon Walled City Park in Kowloon City district. This park occupies the site of the former Kowloon Walled City, once the most densely populated place on Earth.

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Kowloon Walled City Park now features traditional Chinese garden design, but interpretive displays explain the area's unique history. The former Walled City housed 50,000 residents in 6.4 acres before demolition in the 1990s (Kowloon Walled City was demolished primarily due to extremely poor living conditions, lack of infrastructure, and unsanitary conditions, which posed significant health and safety risks to its residents).

The park includes preserved sections of the original city walls and foundations, providing physical connections to this remarkable chapter in Hong Kong's urban development story.

For lunch, visit Australia Dairy Company in Jordan (47-49 Parkes Street). This cha chaan teng represents authentic Hong Kong cafe culture with its efficient service, shared tables, and fusion menu combining Chinese and Western elements.

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Order the scrambled eggs with toast and milk tea, simple ingredients prepared with precision that demonstrates Hong Kong's approach to casual dining. The restaurant's no-nonsense efficiency reflects broader Hong Kong business culture.

After the museum and park visits, find a traditional dim sum restaurant for late lunch. Maxim's Palace in City Hall or Luk Yu Tea House in Central provide authentic dim sum experiences with proper tea service.

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Dim sum represents Hong Kong's social dining culture. Order a variety of dishes to share, and observe how local families and business groups use dim sum meals for social bonding and business discussions.

Take the MTR to Kowloon Station (Airport Express) to explore West Kowloon Cultural District. This massive development project represents Hong Kong's investment in becoming a regional cultural hub.

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The M+ Museum houses contemporary art from Asia and beyond. Even if you don't enter the museum, the building itself represents Hong Kong's architectural ambitions and cultural positioning within Southeast Asia.

The West Kowloon Harbourfront Promenade extends for 2 kilometers along Victoria Harbor, providing unobstructed views of Hong Kong Island's skyline. This newest addition to Hong Kong's public waterfront spaces demonstrates the city's commitment to public space development.

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The promenade includes various themed sections: art installations, children's play areas, and quiet contemplation spaces. Each section serves different user groups while maintaining design consistency.

For your final evening, return to Victoria Peak via a different route. Take the MTR to Admiralty, then taxi to the Peak Tower. This avoids the Peak Tram queues and provides a different perspective on the ascent.

The evening views from Victoria Peak differ significantly from Day 1's morning visit. The city lights create a completely different visual experience, and the cooler evening temperatures make walking more comfortable.

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Position yourself at the Sky Terrace or free viewing areas 30 minutes before sunset. The transition from daylight to city lights provides the most dramatic photo opportunities and emotional impact of your 4 days in Hong Kong.

Throughout Hong Kong, you'll encounter references to Bruce Lee and Jackie Chan, the city's most famous martial arts film exports. Bruce Lee's former residence in Mid-Levels and the Avenue of Stars tributes provide connections to Hong Kong's film industry heritage.

Jackie Chan's influence appears in newer attractions and his continued Hong Kong residence. Both figures represent Hong Kong's cultural export success and international recognition.

MTR rides: 4 segments Taxi rides: 2 (to Kowloon Walled City Park, to Peak) \ Walking distance: Approximately 6 kilometers \ Museum time: 3 hours

Day 4 integrates historical understanding with contemporary culture, providing context for Hong Kong's rapid development and current regional position.

Load your Octopus card with HK$200 on arrival and reload as needed. The card works for all public transport plus many shops and restaurants. Keep the card after your visit, it remains valid for three years and can be reloaded on future trips.

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Download offline maps for Hong Kong before arrival. Google Maps provides excellent public transport directions and real-time information for buses and ferries. The walking directions include pedestrian bridge routes that save significant time.

Download the MTR Mobile app for real-time arrival information and route planning. The app works offline and includes walking directions to station entrances, crucial in Hong Kong's complex underground systems.

Hong Kong's ferry system offers better harbor views than the MTR tunnel routes. The Star Ferry costs HK$2.70 and provides transportation plus sightseeing. Other ferry routes connect to outlying islands and different harbor points.

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Hong Kong's best street food requires some Chinese language skills or pointing at menu items. Look for stalls with local customers queuing, this indicates fresh food and fair prices. Avoid tourist-heavy areas for authentic experiences.

Hong Kong's tea restaurants represent the city's East-meets-West culinary identity. These establishments serve fusion breakfast items, afternoon tea sets, and dinner combinations that reflect Hong Kong's unique cultural position.

Traditional dim sum service involves selecting dishes from rolling carts or ordering from bilingual menus. Share multiple dishes among your group and observe proper tea etiquette, refill others' cups before your own.

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Tipping Guidelines

Remove hats and sunglasses when entering temples. Photography is generally permitted but ask permission for photos of people praying. Observe quietly and avoid disrupting religious activities.

Queue discipline is strictly observed, especially for public transport. Offer seats to elderly passengers and pregnant women. Keep conversations quiet and avoid blocking doors during peak hours.

Tipping isn't mandatory but is appreciated for good service. Round up taxi fares to the nearest HK$10. Restaurants with table service typically add a 10% service charge automatically.

Authentic vs Tourist Markets

Hong Kong's weekend flea markets offer vintage items and collectibles. The Cat Street antique market operates daily, while Temple Street's daytime flea market section provides different goods than the evening tourist market.

In street markets, start negotiations at 30-40% of the asking price. Be prepared to walk away; many vendors will call you back with better offers. Payment in cash often results in additional discounts.

Distinguish between authentic local markets (wet markets, wholesale districts) and tourist-oriented street markets. Both serve different purposes and offer different experiences and pricing structures.

October through March offers the most comfortable weather for walking and outdoor activities. Summer months (June-September) require more indoor planning due to heat and humidity.

Daily costs vary significantly based on dining choices and attraction preferences. Street food meals cost HK$30-60, while hotel restaurants range HK$300+ per person. Transportation averages HK$50-80 daily.

Hong Kong maintains excellent personal safety standards. Violent crime against tourists is extremely rare. Standard precautions apply: watch for pickpockets in crowded areas and keep valuables secure.

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This itinerary balances Hong Kong's essential experiences with authentic local culture. The sequence respects the city's rhythm while providing comprehensive exposure to temples, markets, natural beauty, and modern development.

What to do in Hong Kong in 4 days ultimately depends on your interests, but this framework ensures exposure to Hong Kong's fundamental elements: efficient transport systems, cultural diversity, natural beauty, and urban sophistication.

If you have a bit more time, here's how I'd stretch this to 5 days in Hong Kong. The additional day allows for deeper exploration of New Territories areas or extended hiking in country parks.

Hong Kong continues evolving, but its fundamental appeal remains constant: a place where efficiency meets tradition, where mountains meet harbors, and where four days provide enough experiences to understand why so many visitors return repeatedly.

For more detailed planning and customized Hong Kong experiences, consider the specific interests and energy levels of your travel group. This framework adapts to different preferences while maintaining the essential Hong Kong elements that make the city memorable.

The success of spending 4 days in Hong Kong lies in understanding that the city operates on multiple levels simultaneously. Street level offers markets and food scenes, elevated walkways provide efficient transport, while hilltops and harbors offer perspective on the entire urban system.

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This amazing city rewards visitors who balance planned activities with spontaneous exploration. Whether you arrived on a cheap flight deal or planned this as part of a longer Southeast Asia journey, Hong Kong's compact geography and excellent transport make ambitious itineraries achievable without exhaustion.

Meta Title: 4 Days in Hong Kong: A Local's Smart, Scenic Itinerary

Meta Description: A local shows how to spend 4 days in Hong Kong efficiently: temples, ferries, hikes, and street food without the guesswork.