With so much to taste, your only limitation is your appetite. Try not to overdo it on too many chargrilled chicken yakitori – or pork belly, a Fukuoka specialty – at a riverside yatai food stall, and weave through the part of Nagahamasengyo Fish Market never frequented by foreigners for the city’s favorite delicacy: uni (sea urchin). Inhale the rich aroma of your flannel drip coffee (locals say it’s extra smooth) at a trendy cafe, or slurp up umami noodles at your host’s best tonkotsu ramen spot. Motsunabe, a hearty stew made from offal, is a winter must-have (or, you could try its more docile sister, chicken mizutaki). Mackerel is at its freshest in Fukuoka – so fresh, it’s the only place in the world you can eat it as raw, sesame-marinated gomasaba.