Want to taste the real food culture of Seoul, and not the tourist version? With a local insider to show you how to eat dak hanmari whole chicken soup, take you to two of Seoul’s meokjagolmok - alleys dedicated to a single dish - and the oldest market in Korea, where hundreds of years of culture are distilled into chaotically organized lanes, you’ll discover exactly that. Try dishes like soondae (blood sausage) and tteokbokki (sticky rice rolls lavishly coated in a spicy sauce). At Euljiro Nogari Alley, join the locals in ice-cold beers and this alley’s signature dish: dried, then grilled pollock. Finally, you’ll go to a generations-old cafe for traditional tea like yulmu-cha and sweet rice cakes, the Korean symbol of hospitality to guests.