You’ll join a host and head southwest of bustling Shibuya to Sangenjaya, a much more laid-back neighborhood where time slows down just enough to appreciate this different side of Tokyo. Your local host will lead you upward from the local station, where Carrot Tower offers incredible views of the cityscape that’ll give you the lay of the land.

Munch on local bites at places like Gyoza Shack, where delicious dumplings are served hot and cheap, or sip on some fine sake at Orbit, a live music joint packed with vintage arcade games. If it’s art you’re after, try to make sense of the exhibitions at the 233 Gallery and the performances at Setagaya Public Theatre, or spend your day sifting through record stores and thrift shops.