5 Hidden Gems in Lisbon

You couldn’t explore Lisbon off the beaten path and not listen to fado at some point - it would be rude, and even if you tried it would be difficult not to come across it at some point. The best places to hear this traditional music that was born in the medieval quarter of the city are in historic Mouraria or Alfama, but instead of heading to a casa de fados where you’ll pay a fixed price for entry, a drink and sometimes dinner, stop by Amigos da Severa instead. This is one of Lisbon best kept secrets, a tiny tavern where locals pick up their instruments and play for each other, themselves and whoever else happens to be lucky enough to have squeezed into the bar at the time. It’s also a great spot to try the local cherry liqueur, ginja. There are certainly more famous spots to enjoy a glass or two in the city centre, but for a local vibe and homemade liqueur you can’t go wrong with this bar. The history of the place can be read through the objects that adorn the walls and covers the small counter; from a statue of Our Lady of Fatima to old fado posters, record sleeves to football scarves, dried flowers and even a string of garlic - it looks like it hasn’t changed since your grandmother was a girl, but the locals wouldn’t change it for the world!

This road leads you away from Lisbon’s main square, the Praça do Comércio, along the river towards the train station. It’s a hidden gem of Lisbon where locals come to hang out, sunbath and or play with their kids at weekends to get outdoors without leaving the city. There’s a small kiosk with deckchairs to sit back in and enjoy the panoramic views over the river, but to get a taste of life like the locals, grab some beers from a shop on the way and sit right on the stone floor which slopes down into the river instead. When the main road curves around to the right, keep walking along the promenade and you’ll find a cluster of pop up bars and street food stalls. In the evenings you’ll find locals sitting at the benches, enjoying the mojitos and grabbing some food - it’s the perfect spot to cool off in the evenings.

There is an alternative side to Lisbon, but you certainly won’t find it in your guidebook. In Mouraria, an old local neighbourhood, a small number of ‘illegal’ Chinese restaurants have started to appear close to the Martim Moniz metro station. Known as clandestinos by the locals, these spots are essentially in someone’s home, where the food comes straight from their kitchen and the bathroom is the same as the one used by the family who lives there. Some are literally in the family’s living room and you might have to arrange yourself around someone’s grandma watching tv in the corner and the old guys playing board games, although some owners have converted their apartment to have a more restaurant like set-up. Those not in the know would walk straight past these spots, as the only way to distinguish them from the surrounding flats is by a red Chinese lantern that hangs in the window, or if you’re lucky enough to have a tip given to you by a local. So take a deep breath, ring the doorbell and prepare to try truly authentic Chinese food. It might sound strange, but these eateries have become part of the fabric of local life in this area, and it’s not an experience you’ll get anywhere else. You’ll find two of these secret spots at 59 Rua do Benformosso, but also in Rua do Terreirinho and Beco da Oliveira.